FASHION REVIEW: KAI KÜHNE 2009 COLLECTION

Kai Kühne 2009 Collection

Season/s: Spring/Fall

Overview: Black leather-like tops with angular neck lines cut short at the waist by a tight woman's cummerbund (the thick high-waisted belt a staple in 2009 fashion), that lead into knee length skirts, black but with a metallic sheen... Dark gray eye-catching renditions of fitted long feminine overcoats complete with satin almost faux-fur finishes... Even returns to over-sized shapeless gray and black suits were among the styles that graced Kühne's 2009 runways.

Full Review: Kai Kühne, the German designer who has rebounded from an almost complacent level of work, has rebounded with a vengeance, staling the show at Berlin's fashion week and making a definite impression in New York. He has created one of the best basic-avec-flair group of pieces with his 2009 collection, and the line shows almost a reflection of what the mood of the world is for fashion this year, less interested in cute or colorful prints and more in tune with the sinking economic reality and therefore mindset. Yes, Kühne's spring 2009 ready-to-wear (RTW) saw classic over-the-shoulder dresses and remakes of the female suit jacket paired with short-shorts, but it was his fall 2009 RTW that really stepped up to the plate. Clinging to black as a concordant factor is a common mistake of fashion designers, but not in Kühne's fall collection.

Black leather-like tops with angular neck lines cut short at the waist by a tight woman's cummerbund (the thick high-waisted belt a staple in 2009 fashion), that lead into knee length skirts, black but with a metallic sheen... Dark gray eye-catching renditions of fitted long feminine overcoats complete with satin almost faux-fur finishes... Even returns to over-sized shapeless gray and black suits were among the styles that graced Kuhne's runways. The dark collection is different from those of years passed, it echos the 2009 world, a world that has perhaps been made much more serious this year by collapses of banks and even national economies.

Let it be said that to appreciate these combinations even more, knowing Kühne's departure from his less-flamboyant collections of 2006 and 2007, which featured tom-boyish cuts and nowhere near the imagination. 2009 for fashion has featured designers doing brave plays on tints and shades (take a look at Elie Saab's spring RTW, which opted towards utter white), but Kühne has been able to also insert new, bold shapes and remixes into the year's fashion. German fashion is known to have more of a grave and even morose appeal, and hard edges (think the rarely festive pieces by German's Torsten Amft and Robert Geller). However, the world mood being arguably more bleak than in years passed, and a transformation to a higher level of Germanic art and design in fashion, have been combined to make 2009 the year of Kühne.

Kai Kühne Fashion Show - Berlin Fashion Week (Spring/Summer 2010)

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