FASHION REVIEW: JIL SANDER 2010 MENSWEAR COLLECTION

Jil Sander's 2010 Menswear Collection
Season:Spring/Summer
2010

If your father was a dirty parish priest, he may dress you in the fashion of German understated-design innovator Jil Sander's 2010 Menswear collection. Yes, the analogy is inappropriate, but no more so than Sander's clothes are inappropriate for the actual, non-fairy-tale world. However, that is not to suggest that her collection is anything but delightful.

A pale model whose brown hair is in a bowl cut, walks quietly down the runway, white wax-laced shoes curtailing fitted slim white trousers. He has his stark white shirt unbuttoned and is wearing no undershirt; as he walks it swings open to his sides, revealing a hairless chest and two boyish nipples, which sit flat on his chest like coral-coloured construction paper cut-outs. He is preceded and succeeded by models all with brown bowl-cut hair, and they tower over the crowd in their whites as if they have calmly walked straight from boarding school. Below them, all of the onlookers appear "phonies." They are on their way to read Kafka under apple trees.

2010 showed a definite evolution of Sander from years passed, especially her 2008 collection in which she attempted many of the same designs. In 2008 though the pants were baggier, the coats longer, even the model's hair too wispy, and the line as a whole in need of tailoring to define the lanky limbs of the barely post-pubescent boys to whom her line seems appropriately catered. Fast-forward to 2010 when clean crisp whites saddle the sides of brown-haired boys, and you have an impeccable example of everything her minimalist style should be.

Sander (full name: Heidemarie Jiline Sander, born near Hamburg) succeeds in stripping down to the essentials of clothing, simultaneously succeeding in stripping away her works' functionality, but in the best of conceptual contexts. Nicknames such as "Master of Minimalism" are shown again and again to be well-founded; she is not so bold as to be the Rothko of fashion, but more so the Whistler. Any given piece of Sander's has the eloquence of Prada (which owned a stake of her line on and off for several years in a love/hate cooperation), without the pretense. Her collection inspires images of the wooden metal-framed desks, the school bell having just rang, listless after a long day in an empty classroom, and makes you wonder how any reductionist designer could ever top Jil Sander's Spring/Summer 2010.

Jil Sander's Spring/Sumer 2010 Collection

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